Your vehicle is on the boarderline of when they were changed over, and you may, or may not have a regulator outside of the alternator. It seems one wire goes to a fusible link, then eventually makes it to the fuse block, and the other seems to go to all sorts of pin conectors. L is Light which goes to the wire in your harness that goes to the dummy light. The napa website lists some 20 styles of alternator for this year, yet none of them have my plug style. The striped wire goes off the the auto-choke relay and the charge meter on the dash, the non-striped wire goes to the fusible link. I am the person who originally came up with the Saturn alternator swap onto L series engines.
It is close enough to the stock straddle style lower mount to get it all to mount up. They are independent publications and are not affiliated with or endorsed by or. I don't have a wiring diagram for your charging system, so I won't be much help. On my alt the top of the T is closest to the edge of the alternator and is the same with every T plugged alt I saw on the napa website. Just be careful I have noticed some aftermarket volt regs the color code if off ,so use the main harness as the main reference for the color codes. Apr 08, 2018 Relay maybe.
All are wired the same way. Applying 12V not through a bulb to the L terminal will smoke the regulator!! It will have one heavy gauge wire 10ga or so and one smaller. Then the lamp and choke circuits will work as designed. When I Install the stereo Im gonna upgrade to a chevy 90 amp. I used the radio power wire and just made a jumper inbetween so not to cut the stock datsun connectors. Also this allows for a quick return to a stock setup should you ever desire to do so.
Connect the S to your yellow wire on the top of the T connector on your harness. Just like my very vague manual shows it for the 85 and 86 models. The new alternator has a plug that looks like a T one vertical and one horizontal prong -- like whereas my old and rather dead alternator has this huge oval plug with two prongs side by side horizontally -- -- Both wires are yellow, one with a black stripe. Splice the W white wire to the Y one. With engine running, take voltage reading at alternator bat terminal. These can be took apart and file the points in them, put back together, and they are good to go for a while. Haven't switch out the alternator, yet.
It is close enough to the stock straddle style lower mount to get it all to mount up. There is also a splice in the harness, of the alternators positive lead white with a red stripe and the main power line from the starter to the fusebox white. Anyone know for sure which prong is which on the T that connects to the alternator? I'll try to trace it on the wiring diagram to make sure and I think I have a picture of the wires hooked up to the original alternator before I removed it. Don't use the P terminal. Connect the L terminal to your white black on the bottom of the T connector the one that previously went into the stock alternator on your harness.
Even though in our viewpoint, which weve presented the best 78 280z wiring diagram graphic, however, your thought could be little bit diverse with us. After it's bolted in I need some help figuring out the wiring. If not, ask and I'll help you out. I am hoping there's a easy way to test this, I'm just not sure how to approach it. Endo will take care of you, send an email to Bprojects. Don't use the F terminal.
And it doesn't save any weight : The charging issue was from a bad battery. This is something you will just have to determine. Ground If you don't have a black harness ground connector, make one and connect it from the alternator case to any black ground wire in your wiring harness. But I'd rather learn something here, and with help I am hoping to get this thing wired right, save 100 bucks, and get it done now, not weeks from now. If you can get a good hold on the pully of the alternator, and you are able to turn it inside the belt, then the belt may be the problem, and need to be tightened up. The connector I removed from the Saturn only has wires for the F and L terminals and I need a connector that has terminals for L and S This isn't a very good picture and there's dielectric grease inside but what kind of electrical doodad can I get that I can connect directly to the individual pins? There is one other possibility I can think of and that would be that the voltage regulator is faulty and and causing an overvoltage at higher engine speeds and therfore opening up the field circuit to prevent the altenator from over charging the battery this is a safety function of the regulator.
Glad to help out, Good Luck!!! The heavier wire I believe pin 1 goes to the output post on the back of the alternator. Ran into a small problem swapping an 86 alternator into my 85. If I wanted to install an aftermarket gauge to monitor what's going on at the battery, would I install a Volt Gauge or an Amp Gauge? The splice occurs in the wiring harness. If the reading at the alternator is higher, then there is a problem with wiring circuit from alternator to battery. Do you know The thought of 78 280z wiring diagram that we give you in this posting is related to the interest record about 78 280z wiring diagram. Click the search button then the blue link. Look for a square type metal box on the fire wall, or around the sides of the radiator, and you may have found your regulator.
Yow will discover a range of news, ideas, content articles, anywhere in the world in only secs. That is a very standard connector. Will drill out one of the Saturn connectors I bought at the wrecking yard and jimmy it into place and then probably set it with a little Goop Glue. Quick, simple, and clean installation. The switch is a input to the lighting control module , the lighting control module will supply a ground to the control side of the rear window defroster relay ,energizing the relay sending B+ power to the defroster grid.