Just about anyone who can sling a wrench can do this swap. I have heard that if you just do a straight manual conversion that you need it to start the car, and the automatic shifter needs to be in park when you remove it. Call David LittleRocket in Houston. Trade the car in - I really like the car and trade value was bugger all so that was ruled out 2. As you can imagine, the air was blue - I'd now waste 4 hours for nothing. It is also a rare car with clean title.
Then remove the cables from the selector fork: The whole mechanism from front to back then can be pulled through cabin side - now for the instalation First up I used a hole cutter to drill through the bulkhead - 30mm if I remember correctly - drilled two whole close by. To perform this conversion you will need kits B and C. Figure it out and pin it in. The two are virtually the same, except the later transaxles have humps for the starter on both the intake and exhaust sides. There is a plastic cover piece that you have to use over he harness to make it stay still.
Be aware however, that now the cars are aging, its just a matter of time before the next component fails. This is basically what's listed over at Spyderchat. Someone please update me once you find the correct part. Have Lilrocket from Spyderchat do your gear selector shaft and it's a simple swap. It'll pull from the bottom instead of the top like the 1zzfe. He had stopped doing swaps for a while.
This is very important when it comes to clearance. Along with this, the belt tensioner is the same, so use either one. Has become my daily driver. Also, you can make the diode change that Brad discovered but you are going to have to use an electronic speedo with the solara tranny and so you might as well pick up a guage cluster and use both the speedo and the tach for your swap. I had the bearing ring machined so that I could use the turbo passenger side shaft. And I still haven't changed the gearbox's over. Drill out the hole so it'll accept the 17mm bolt and slot it a little so that the engine sits forward instead of crooked.
It's the same wiring harness that is in the 1zzfe already, just nab three cables from the 2zzge wiring harness if you got it , and with the stock 1zzfe harness, just add the three wires. From what I've read, it's easiest to get the left mount in first, unbolt the right mount then bolt it to the bridge and then mess around with the right mount to get it to sit back in. Also available as a testpipe with no catalytic converter. You must grind a small hole in the front firewall so the master cylinder may pass through. Along with this, the belt tensioner is the same, so use either one. Things to replace: While the engine is out, if it's got some miles on it, or if you're a perfectionist, try to replace everything that you would normally replace. Use the bracket or don't.
For the enhanced peace of mind of an available Extended Vehicle Service Agreement, please visit. The sensor behind the intake manifold will be a whore to get to if you don't have any small asians around to get their hands back there. I am new here own a 2002 Mr2 Spyder - Can only change the Transmission first that later on change to 2zz Motor. A 24mm socket will work but is ever so slightly too large and can round off the bolt. Please read through the information below to determine what you need to order. Open to trade depending on what you have, but prefer cash.
It comes with a stainless steel header, new bridge mount, wiring harness adapter and dipstick tube. I've decided to do a manual conversion on my sw20 and have everything to do it but need a little info before i start. But I'm having too much fun driving it to take it out of service to work on it. This is basically what's listed over at Spyderchat. Thanks you guys and good night. Emissions Coverage Coverages vary under Federal and California regulations. .
If you have the 2zz ones, you'll have to extend them. Remove the 2zzge power steering pulley and put in the 1zzfe idler pulley. The fuel tank does not need to be dropped to route the cables or hydraulic hose. It doesn't matter really, but I'd prefer to use the bracket when I do it. Two of the three wires are located at the top of the head above the bell housing of the tranny.
I don't have those boxes. The 02 has two pins for the knock sensor and the '00 engines have 1 pin. Good point though - lots of bits need thinking about. Please try to spell correctly because this will help people find information later if they are using search functionality. Timing chain, belts, rubber hoses, vacuum lines, botox injections, etc. The connector is actually a little farther up. If you have the 2zz ones, you'll have to extend them.